SEVERAL millennia ago, troglodytes lived
in the caves of the barren mountains of northern Andalucia.
Today those caves have new inhabitants: British expats.
Bill and Ingrid Hamilton started the trend 16 months ago,
buying a four-bedroom, two-bathroom cave for £60,000. Since
then more than 40 other caves have been sold to British families
seeking an alternative to the high-rise, noisy and congested
Costas.
Visit the tiny hamlet of Galera (population 1,300) on a sunny
January day and the tranquillity of this high plateau, nestling
in a triangle formed by three stunning mountain ranges, is
disturbed by the joyous burr of heavy plant and the chime of
hammers.
Rosario Arjona cannot believe all the activity. Two years
ago this was all in ruins and now its great, she smiles,
pointing out her son driving a dumper truck along the narrow
tracks that connect the galleried sides of the hill where she
lives. Life is coming back to the village. All this activity
gives bread to the hairdresser, the baker and especially the
labourers, like my son. We no longer have to leave, indeed we
are coming back, along with the foreigners.
The Hamiltons admit that they are unlikely pioneers of modern
cave life. Ingrid and Bill, a retired prison officer from
Edinburgh, were living in Torrevieja, but the over-development
of the coast had got to them.
I never imagined that Id end up living in a cave but
the moment I saw it for the first time I said yes, this is
for me, he said.
Their cave enjoys a view across the plain to the distant town
of Huescar. Instead of nipping out on to a crowded promenade to
read the English papers and eat a traditional fried breakfast,
Bill and Ingrid are now treated daily to fresh vegetables
brought by their neighbour, Antonio, on his donkey from his
kitchen garden, not to mention local wine from his bodega. A
climb higher up the bluff that dominates the village brings you
to the home of David and Ann Warnes, the Hamiltons fellow
pioneers, who spent the previous decade sailing a 45ft yacht
around the Mediterranean. Both are keen fell-walkers and their
duplex cave-house has panoramic views of the Lasagra mountain.
Cave life has progressed since the 1950s, when nearly 5,000
villagers were forced to emigrate, most of them to Barcelona,
France and Germany, in search of work. The Hamiltons can watch
satellite television and Bill has created a studio for his
guitars.
These Flintstone caves may date back to the Iron Age, when
the hill was the thriving Iberian town of Tutugi, but the newly
restored versions have electricity, mains water, telephone lines
and fireplaces. Chimneys poke through the soft rock, making it
look as if the hills are breathing smoke. And naturally, no two
caves are the same. Mr and Mrs Warnes have been visited by a
man, now living in Catalonia, who was born in their cave.
We showed him around and he told us that pigs and rabbits
were kept in what is now our kitchen and the mule was kept in
one of our bedrooms, Mrs Warnes said.
Our youngest son said First you live on a boat and now
a cave why cant you just live in a house like ordinary
people? The sudden popularity of Galeras reformed caves
is turning the village into something of a cross between the
Klondike and Bedrock of Flintstones fame.
In a way we feel sad about the fact that in the short time
that weve been here you bump into more and more English
people, David said. But I dont object because this is
creating work, employment, money locally. There is definitely
the sense of a boom going on.
The man responsible for this is Miguel Rodríguez Gomez, a
local who first saw the potential of the caves 15 years ago,
when he redecorated one and began letting it for weekends to
city-dwelling Spaniards.
Everyone laughed at me at first, he said. The
Andalucian government wasnt interested because it was
actually working to end the regions practice of cave-living.
In our consciousness it was linked to poverty, the memory of
those terribly hard times.
Most of the village moved away, ashamed of where they came
from and having grown up in a cave, never wanting to return. Now
all that is changing. They come back and see how beautiful they
are when they are restored.
Señor Gomez believes that the caves there are more than
1,000 will in time all be brought up to the modern standards
enjoyed by the new British residents. Neither he nor anybody
else in Galera is worried about the impact that the arrival of
foreigners will have on what is still a very traditional part of
Spain.
Les and Sharon Edwards and their son, Craig, agree. Craig,
25, a proud member of Galeras chamber of commerce, bought a
restaurant in the village and are now getting in on the cave
boom.
The Spanish think its crazy what the foreigners are
prepared to pay for their caves; to them living in a cave still
represents poverty, he said. But for Londoners caves are
funky and relatively inexpensive.
The Edwards clients include an Islington couple with a
chain of clothes shops and a physiotherapist for a Premiership
football club.
Back at his cave, Bill said: They are so cheap to run and
they maintain an all-year round temperature of 20 degrees.
Its been down to minus 10 here, but its lovely and
warm inside. Then in the summer it went up to 48 and you can
stand in your doorway and feel the cold air on your back.
The people are fantastic; theres nothing I dislike
about it. I love being a troglodyte.
PRICE RISES FUND EXODUS
More and more Britons are exploiting house-price rises to
fund a home abroad (Lucia Adams writes). It is estimated that
there are four million living overseas, and a recent survey by
Alliance & Leicester International predicted that by 2020,
one in five older Britons will live abroad.
The most popular destinations are France and Spain, but
buyers are turning to Croatia, Cyprus and even Dubai and the
Caribbean. New destinations in 2004 could include the western
Algarve, the eastern Mediterranean and North Africa.